Every motorist knows that even a small rust on the body will turn into a serious problem over time, becoming through corrosion. Ideally, such a place on the body should be trimmed and then welded. True, such an operation costs a lot, and therefore is not always available. If the problem with the body needs to be solved quickly and beautifully, then you can resort to the following method.
What you need: degreaser, rust converter, fiberglass, putty, polyester resin, masking tape, primer, anti-corrosion epoxy primer, body sealant, spray thinner for varnish transitions, sandpaper.
Before tackling rust, you need to thoroughly clean the place where all work will be carried out. First, the rust is protected with a brush, both corrosion and paint around it are mercilessly removed. After cleaning, all dust is blown out, processing is carried out with fine sandpaper, after which a rust converter is applied to the surface. After 2.5-3 hours, a degreasing procedure is carried out on top of the transducer.
A polyester resin is applied to the degreased area, to which the fiberglass fragments are glued. The fiberglass needs to be thoroughly coated with resin so that it is completely saturated. The more layers of fiber are applied, the better. You need to make at least 4, or even better 6. It should be remembered that the resin hardens in about 1 hour. For greater convenience of work, it is better to remove the body element being repaired if the design and circumstances allow. After the final hardening of the resin and fiberglass, all excess is carefully cut off with a grinder, and then cleaned with fine sandpaper in several stages with a gradual decrease in grain size.
Next, the putty is kneaded. It is applied to fiberglass in very thin layers. This is necessary to minimize shrinkage and prevent the formation of cavities under the paintwork in the restored area. A putty with aluminum powder is best suited for these purposes: this is better taken, lies more reliably and spreads less. Each new layer of putty must be sanded after hardening. This procedure, frankly, is not quick. Drying of one layer takes 15-20 minutes. In addition, each new layer is sanded with a reduction in grain size.
On the last layer of putty, 3 layers of anti-corrosion epoxy primer are applied. The back of the part to be repaired is also sanded and, if desired, primed. On the face side, over the epoxy primer, another coat of normal is applied. It is processed with very fine sandpaper so that a smooth transition to the old paintwork is obtained. You can also apply body sealant on top.
Further, the matter remains small: first, using 1200 sandpaper, you need to remove the paint around the restored area of the body at a distance of 20 cm. The cleaned surface is degreased. Next, an epoxy primer with a small grip (5-7 cm) is applied to the surface of the old body paint. When the paint dries, varnish is applied in 2 layers. After that, it remains to apply only the old matte paint and polish when everything is dry.
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